Welcome to
How I Made It
Page 2 of 3
The next step is to cut out the feet and the accent for the crown. I cut out 5 of these, 1 for each side and another to accent the crown. I made a simpe pattern out of 1/4 in hard board and then traced the pattern onto the Oak stock.
After I drew the pattern I then moved over to my drill press and, using a forstner bit, I drilled a hole to make-up the rounded inside portion of the design I created. It is much easier to drill this hole now than it is to drill it after I've cut the design out, because there is less chance of damaging the design. Next, I move over to my scroll saw and cut out the remaining portion of the design.
After I cutting out the design on the scroll saw, I moved over to my router table. Using a cove bit I rout a decorative edge on 4 of the design pieces to be used as feet for the clock. Since the feet are attached on the outside of the uprights it is necessary to cut 8 smaller pieces of stock to go between the uprights on the top and bottom boxes. These are build-up pieces that make-up the difference between the uprights. I rout one edge of the these as well and attach them using my brad nailer and 16 gauge brad nails high enough on the support rails to give them about a 3/4 in. reveal above to tops of the feet which are attached next..
Next, I attached the feet to the lower box using my 16 gauge brad nailer. I miter each corner joint, this is the only area where I use glue on the feet. Make sure that when you attach the feet that the lowest portion of the box can not be seen through the design. You can see here in this picture that the box stops just above the portion of the deign where I used the forstner bit.
Now I make the crown that sits on top of the clock. I take a piece of MDF and cut it the same size as the opening in the top box plus the uprights and moldings. Measure the total width of the box/uprights/moldings (this should be about 1-1/2 in.). Then, using my table saw, I cut a 1-1/2 in. rabit in the crown on all 4 sides, about 1/4 in. deep. This will allow the crown to sit inside the top box.
I used the 5th design piece to accent the crown of the clock. The first thing I do is set-up for placement of the accent piece by centering it on the front edge of the crown. Next I make a long mortise or stop dado in the top of the crown about 2 in. from the front edge using a 1/4 in. router bit. I make this mortise or stop dado about 1/2 in. deep so as not to go all the way thru the crown. I make the mortise about 1 in. short of the length of the design piece and cut off about 1 in. of the tenon so the mortise doesn't show. Next, I make a long 1/4 in. wide by 3/8 in. deep tenon out of the bottom of the design piece. I then glue the design piece to the crown using the mortise and tenon joint.
Next, I add 2 sets of coved moldings, as seen in the picture to the right, to the edge of the crown, making sure that the first is wide enough to overhang the box so the it covers the top, edges and any nail holes from the molding used between the uprights.
The second set of cove moldings fit over the first at the top to create more definition and a more pleasing visual effect, notice the 1/16 reveal between the two moldings.